Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Of Elephants and Monkeys

Jaipur is the capitol and largest city in Rajasthan. It was founded in 1727 by the Emperor Jai Singh. Jai Singh also completed the Amber Fort (which is actually a palace) that was started by his Grandfather, Man Singh. Our guide at the fort stated that Jai Singh founded Jaipur because the city of Amber had outgrown it's supply of water. Moving the city down from the mountains allowed more water and thus a larger population.

Amber fort (and Amber city) is located in the mountains above Jaipur, about 11km north of the city. The fort is encircled by 6 miles of 20' tall walls and is located on top of a mountain. Impressive to say the least. So impressive, that we decided to ride an elephant up the long and winding path to the fort.

The elephants that are used to haul people up to the fort make the journey only 3 times a day. They are HUGE and are stylishly decorated!

The inside is as opulent as the outside is fortified. One area, call the Sheesh Mahal is covered in tiny mirrors that Jai Singh imported from Belgium. This courtyard is impressive and pictures do not do it justice.

After visiting the fort, our driver Vikram took us to another textile shop, this time in the old city of Amber. The textiles were equally impressive and we found a few pieces that had to come home with us. There's so much craftmanship and artistry in the area, it's hard not to be impressed and overwhelmed by the sheer volume.

With the shopping behind us, we decided to gain some inner peace by visiting Galtaji, more familiarly known as the Monkey Temple. The temple complex is nestled in a small valley surrounded by tall mountains. It is quiet, calm, peaceful and occupied by monks and monkeys alike.

The complex houses study areas for Brahmin priests and an interesting system of spring fed pools. These pools are said to have medicinal powers and many Hindu make the pilgrimage to this temple to bath in the waters. At the top of the complex is a temple to Hanuman. In the temple, one of the priests led us in meditation, spoke on the role of Hanuman, and gave us a blessing...note the orange dot on Sarah's forhead.

Filled with a sense of inner peace, we left the Monkey Temple and headed back toward Jaipur. As we rode back to town, both of us decided we were famished! Vikram whisked us away to a great restaurant not far from the hotel where we were treated to an incredible late afternoon lunch of Laal Maas (lamb in red chili sauce) and Subz Kofta Curry (veggie ball in mild curry sauce). Add to that some fragrent basmati rice and a nice helping of Garlic Naan and we were set!

As the sun set, we decided to head back to the hotel for some relaxation time. Sarah and I both are in the throws of good books. She is reading Run, by Ann Patchett and I'm in the throws the final book of John Bemis' The Clockwork Dark Trilogy, The White City.
As we looked back on the day, it was an interesting contrast of sites. Amber fort was built to keep people out. It was exclusive and opulent. The temple, on the other hand, was welcoming (regardless of religious affiliation or belief). It's fascinating to me that such contrasts can live so close to each other in harmony for hundreds of years. Such is the power of India.

2 comments:

  1. Amazing! And glad to know my book has officially been read in India.

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  2. As awesome and spiritual as Jaipur, Amber Fort, those ornate elephants and the meditation must be, I couldn't help but notice how amazing that food looks. Hope you guys bring back some recipes :-)

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